The Jewel of South East Asia .... Luang Prabang

We have had a fabulous 8 days in Luang Prabang. Everyone we have met in Laos that has been here said how much they enjoyed it. Lucy and Rosie both said how much they liked it so we decided to spend a few days here.  We loved it! There is a strong French influence here, which is probably why we liked it so much. The villas are beautiful with wooden shutters on the windows and wonderful dark rich wood inside. The town is right on the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers. We thought the town had a kind of lazy feel to it, like just relax here and enjoy me. This was a great place to recover from 'travellers fatigue'. We enjoyed the Western influence, the baguettes and we even had a real hot chocolate, or at least what I would call a real hot chocolate. The textiles here are beautiful, the best I have seen. We think Luang Prabang has been the most beautiful city/town we have visited in SE Asia and would love to come back. Pete fantasised about coming back here for 6 months, renting a villa and writing a book. Sounds very tempting! We really hope we come back here again one day. I would love to bring an empty suitcase with me fill it with textiles.

Here are some of our favourite photos of Luang Prabang.

There are streets like this all over the place, tucked away, this town is a delight to get lost in. We never got sick of just wandering around the same old streets. They look even more beautiful at night.

There are 2 bamboo bridges over the Nam Khan River to the more Laos side.  They are taken down during the rainy season because the water level rises too high. There is such a lovely energy on the banks of the Mekong and Nam Khan when the sun is going down, people playing volley ball. Lots of people wandering around or young locals on their scooters hanging out. They were fun to watch. Young people seem to be the same any where. Hanging out on their scooters, flirting then taking off with a roar on their step-thrus. Kind of funny.

We came across this chalk board invitation to make our love indestructible while we were out looking for a cafe to have breakfast. I am not sure what will happen to Pete and I now since we did not eat there. 

As I have mentioned, scooters are used for everything! While we were having our breakfast this scooter pulls up to deliver a tray of eggs to the cafe we were eating at. I was very impressed that they  were all in one piece, not one was broken. 

 

Our early morning trip to the local market, we got up about 5.30am to go. There is a whiteboard on the main street of Luang Prabang that has a list of things to do and not do while staying and visiting, the early morning market was a 'to do'.

We have seen this flower right through Laos. I love the colour and they look so beautiful and bold in a field surrounded by bare trees.

I thought of lucy when we came across this paper shop. Lucy and I used to visit Paper Paradise in ChCh on Madras Street. I would often buy beautiful coloured paper from there and make journals, which I loved doing. Making paper here in Laos is one of the traditional crafts practiced by women. 

We came across this cafe that was showing Oscar nominated movies, pirated movies of course. They show them upstairs and the expectation is that you purchase something to eat or drink while watching the movie. We watched the Imitation Game ... Pete had a plate of chips and I had a hot chocolate. We really liked the feel of this little cafe and it was so funky. This downstairs part is a book store/exchange of secondhand books. Did you come across this lucy or Rosie??

We have quite a few readers in our family. This is for you ... except my hot drink would be hot chocolate. I love C.S. Lewis ... he was such an interesting and insightful man and has some very profound things to say, this is one of them.

I spent half a day at a weaving studio ... For me this was one of the highlights of our whole trip. I wove a silk table mat. This is the beginning stage, choosing colours. I found it so stressful having to make a choice of 2 from among so many beautiful colours. This experience really brought alive my love of textiles. I had a hands on experience of what they do and I loved it. That is probably not a surprise for many of you as I have done a lot of craft work in my life, sewing, smocking, cross stitch, knitting, to mention a few. Knitting was a major part of my recovery from PTSD after the CTV. It gave me something to look forward to everyday. I only knitted what I wanted and it had to be in a colour that I loved. I cannot tell you how much joy and satisfaction I got from discovering knitting all over again. I was transported into a different place when I knitted, I felt calm and peaceful. I had my knitting buddy Cheryl. I love Cheryl she is such a great knitter and was always there to help me out when I would call her in a stage of stress or panic, she would very calmly help me out. I am really looking forward to having knitting days with her when we get back.

Here I am creating my masterpiece. My Aunt Julie used to weave and most of us have a woollen scarf that she made on her loom. She had it set up in her lounge over looking the ocean with a view of the Kaikouras. She would have really enjoyed this workshop and been so interested and appreciative of the weaving that is done here. These women have been weaving since they were girls, my teacher was 10 when she learnt from her Mother and Grandmother. She is now in her late 30s and a 'Master Weaver'. Laos women and their crafts have been a significant part of Laos village life and economy. They sit at their looms together and work and talk with their children on their backs or running around being looked after by other members of their families or communities. This womanly connection has inspired me right through my travels and I sometimes wonder if we women in the West have lost that connection with each other as we have become more affluent, educated, busy and spread out. As I have reflected on this I have become very grateful for the women in my life who are my friends and family. I am very grateful that these women care about me, love me and are part of my life. You inspire me, uplift me and I want to be a better person because of my relationship and association with each of you. I hope you know who you are and how important you are to me. 

The nearly finished product. I was so excited by what I was doing and would have loved to have spent more time weaving.

We love these young Buddhist monks. They look so happy, young and fresh as they wander around the town. There are three monasteries in Luang Prabang which are also schools for these young monks. They wake at 4.30am every morning for meditation and at 6.30am they come out onto the street for their alms giving ritual. We got up early in the morning to participate ... the monks walk past with a basket and people place food in them. It is a silent ritual and there are certain protocols to be followed like we are not allowed to stand higher than them, touch or talk with them, photograph them too directly. We enjoyed being part of it ... we bought sticky rice as our food contribution. I like sticky rice.

We came across a wonderful museum, very small and dedicated to the women in Laos and the work they do in their families and communities. These are some of the samples of their work. These women are trained from a very early age in the craft of weaving, paper making, farming and caring for children. These crafts are considered to be very important and carry a certain status for  Laos women. This is a sample of their work. This panel was in the front of a women's skirt. 

This skirt is beautiful. The material is woven and then made into a skirt.

A sample of silk weaving. We bought ourselves a wall hanging that looks a little like this, it is beautiful and I cannot wait to hang it up in our lounge. I really had to restrain myself from buying more, I would have loved to have gone bananas!

Scarfs that have been woven by Laos women and sold under Fair Trade. There is quite a movement in Laos with the help of expats to lift the economic return for these women. They also help to train them in business so they can be more self sufficient economically.

We came across this beautiful old Mercedes on the street ... over the road was an old Citroen Light 15, Pete owned one when he was a teenager.

My favourite Hot Chocolate stop.

Laos' version of Mr Whippy.

A sunset trip on the Mekong!

Boat families. These people live in their boats on the Mekong. All snuggled up and ready for bed. 

We visited these baguette stands often ... they made the best sandwiches. They have nutella and peanut butter and banana, who doesn't like peanut butter and banana?

I visited the waterfalls ... Pete was back in our hotel room sick. I walked past the bear zoo on my way into the falls. I have never even seen a bear in the flesh before. I went for a swim here with all the other tourists. The pools are beautiful and cold. I also managed to visit the butterfly sanctuary. 

This photo is for you lucy ...

There is a lot of glass used in the decoration of the Buddhist Temples here. When the light catches them they are magnificent. I love their detail in the dressing up of these beautiful buildings.

These Mosaics surround the outside of the oldest Temple in Luang Prabang. It was built in 1560.

The reclining Buddha ... beautiful.

Happy Birthday Chris for March 7

Chris and her amazing Mother Chaz ... 2 beautiful women! I love this photo of them. 

We met Chris in 2004, she came to Christchurch from BYUH to present a paper at a a conference of Pacific Art historians. Our house was full of people, Peter Brunt, the Giles and all of us, less lucy. Mike had just got back from his mission. He picked Chris up at the airport and raced Ashley Giles all the way home in Pete's sports car. I remember Chris coming into our kitchen and meeting her for the first time, as I chatted with her I had a very strong feeling that I would know her as an older woman. Mike and Chris have been married for 10 years now and have two beautiful, crazy, funny children that we adore!

Chris has the most beautiful blue eyes ... luminous eyes. When she smiles her whole face lights up. We have never met anyone that can turn to a camera and smile and bingo it is a perfect photo of her while everyone else pales into insignificance. She is made to be photographed! Chris is a high achiever, she can do anything she sets her mind to, like learning graphic design, house painting and  swimming, running a half marathon, setting up a business, developing her photography abilities, helping to design and revamp an Inn and now working in the corporate world as a Creative Director for Dartmouth Hospital. She faces challenges with courage and perseverance. She is mega competent, her competency and creativity really stand out in the Darmouth Roar video she directed, it made international news and has had nearly 5 million hits.

Chris has brought some amazing people into our lives, her parents Steve and Chaz, her siblings, Joy, Nate, Brig and Jordan and all their partners and children. Chris loves her family passionately. She has wonderful friends that we have fallen in love with, Leilani and Rob, Felicity and Nathaniel and of course the Vials. These people have been a very significant and important part of Chris' live and she loves them dearly and we have grown to love them as well.

Chris has a vulnerability to her that makes her wonderfully authentic and open in her relationships. She loves to lip sync, which is something that she now does with lars and Roxcy. She has an eye for colour, design and style. She is highly creative, great at finding something on the cheap that will change a look for her or a room. She is a wonderful Mum, generous and kind to lars and Roxcy. She plays with them, does creative things with them, laughs with them, she really enjoys them as people and loves to hang out with them. She loves dancing and going to concerts. She has seen a lot of the world. Chris has a good sense of humour. She loves movies and loves watching the Golden Globes and Oscars, a bit of a family tradition for her, following the red carpet and commenting on what is being worn by celebrities on the night, right through to the awards.  As a result of her years of stage when she was at high school she knows a good script and good directing. Chris has brought some great TV series into our family. The best thing about Chris is she loves Mike! That of course thrills us. She is proud of him, completely trusts him and believes in him and really enjoys spending time with him. He is her hero.

Chris has brought a wonderful energy, richness and colour into our lives. We love having her as part of our family.    

Chris at play with lars and Roxcy ... these 2 little people light up her world. 

Chris with lars ... a new Mum, that moment that changes your life forever. Captured by Leilani one of her friends.

Behind Mike on their tandem ... I have not been brave enough to get behind Mike on their tandem yet. I admire you Chris.

March 7 is Chris' birthday, this is our birthday song for you to dance the night away to ... every time I hear it I think of you. We hope you have a wonderful, wonderful day. We love you Chris ...  

http://youtu.be/0yBnIUX0QAE

Loopers

Our scooter that we rented for our Loop ride, not quite like Steve Larsons motor bike.

When we were on Don Det we met an English couple who had done The Loop near Thakhek on a scooter. They said that it was the highlight of their trip in Laos, so Pete and I thought we would do it. It is a 4 day loop ride through some spectacular scenery. We had a great time. We rented our scooter from Mad Monkey rentals. It was a Honda 125, a great scooter, we had it up to just over 100kms. I had a turn riding it, of course I am not quite as confident as Pete but I enjoyed it. Parts of the road were spectacular for riding. Pete would have loved driving his Fraser through here. The Loop is quite popular amongst tourists. People going around the pool are called Loopers and we met a few during our trip. 

Yep ... this really was on our scooter us and Pooh Bear ... loopers!

We spent a lot of time under ground ... there are lots of caves on the Loop, this was the first one we stopped at. We met three other Loopers here from Finland, the UK and the States and we went through the cave together. We kept bumping into them from time to time.

Not far up the road from our first cave it started to bucket down with rain. We stopped of at this shelter and very soon some locals joined us. I guess it is a regular shelter stop for scooterists when it rains.  This was the first dump of real rain we have had since we left VT. 

We rode through a few of these trees in water. This area has been flooded for hydro power purposes. I thought they looked quite stark and beautiful. Pete was appalled at the loss of natural forest and at the way the local villages were forced out of their homes. 

This part of the road is new, the white line struggled to stay in the centre of the road. We thought it was really funny. I am not sure this photo really shows it clearly, our scooter side got narrower and narrower and the other side is quite wide. 

Holiday Home by the lake.

. This guy is from Nebraska I don't remember his name but he has been travelling non-stop for over four years. He has lived in NZ and Australia and is heading for London. His scooter got a puncture and he stopped at this village to get it fixed. The Laos people are very resourceful. There were quite a few breast feeding mothers in this village, looked like they had had their babies about the same time. I was intrigued by them and wondered whether they delivered in hospital or at home in their village. My hunch is they delivered at home. There was not a hospital anywhere near them and I did not see many cars.

Does this colour remind you of anything family?

Logging is supposed to be restricted in Laos. There is a lot of illegal logging and most of the logs end up in Vietnamese factories. They are making a fortune by making furniture out of very old hard wood taken from the rain forests. You can see where they have been felling, I guess much like NZ and the West Coast. This truck was parked on the side of the road. Note the length of the logs. They get across the boarder by bribing the soldiers and in many cases its the army itself that is doing the logging. 

We stopped to buy some gas. I have never seen a gas pump like this before. When the glass cylinder on top of the drum starts to get low you turn the handle and it pumps gas up from the drum into the cylinder. Not long before we stopped here for gas we accidentally rode over a snake trying to cross the road, gave us both a fright. 

This is a tobacco drying shed. We loved this valley, it is so green and lush, with tobacco plants and so quiet. A beautiful valley.

We stumbled upon Enjoy Boy Guesthouse?? I am guessing lucy will get a chuckle out of this.

There is lots of lime stone here in the rivers and the caves. Reminded us of Cave Stream. We have had many great adventures into that Cave.

Tobacco ... so green and lush. This valley felt quite affluent to us. 

Yes ... we actually went into this cave. It is 7kms long and takes and hour to get through to the other side. 

These are the boats that took us through. I did have a bit of a melt down at the start. All I could see was dark and I panicked ... a bit. Since the CTV collapse I get quite agitated when things are low over my head.  But Pete talked me through my anxiety after I had yelled at our guide to stop the boat. I am glad that I did not let my thoughts get the better of me.

This is taken inside the cave ... there are so many stalagtites and stalagmites in here. They are incredible and have obviously been growing for millions of years. I found the cave a real highlight. I have never been in a cave like this before, it really was spectacular! They have lighted walkways so that people can get out and walk around.

Coming out the other side. There is always light at the end of the tunnel. For many years no one used the cave. The people in the nearby village were too scared to go in. In the 1920s someone went through for the first time and since then it has become quite a thoroughfare.We do meet interesting people on the way, we met an Italian couple in the cave who are living in China because the economy in Italy is so bad.

On the other side of the cave is a village that was bombed badly by the US in the 1960s. During the Vietnam war the US dropped billions of dollars of bombs on Laos. Many of them remain in the ground unexploded. Every year local people and children are killed or maimed by them So far no real compensation or help to remove them has been given.  We saw these hanging cans at the place we stopped, I thought they were clever  and a great way of recycling Coke cans. Maybe something for the Matthews children to do for Christmas.

Rod & Tom would have had a lot of fun fishing here.  

Pete and I went for a swim in the river at the end of our boat trip through the cave. It was refreshing. We met a German couple here who are coming out to NZ towards the end of their trip, they are flying into ChCh. We have invited them to come visit and we can help them plan their trip round NZ. We have invited a lot of people to come and stay with us, hopefully they won't all turn up at the same time.  

This is the only grave site that we have seen since we have been in SE Asia. I had to take a photo. It took me a while to figure out what it was.  

There are lots of trees like this in the jungle ... their trunks look white and they stand out. I think they look spectacular.

Another cave ... we stopped of to visit this one on our way back to Thakhek. This cave is huge! More like a cathedral. Very Lord of the Rings.

Inside ... these stairways make it easy to walk around. I love the look of them. This is a very popular cave to visit by the locals it seemed.

We found this note on the door of a restaurant we ate at. The man that served us was very stressed the night we ate there. When we came back the next night this sign was on the door. 

Pete cakes himself in this every day. His protection against Malaria along with our daily dose of Malarone. He does not leave our room before he sprays himself. He says he is taking all precautions.

We carry this very large can of fly spray with us to every hotel we stay in, Pete has all avenues covered. He wants total protection. If we are not killing of mosquitoes I think we are killing ourselves slowly.